Posted by Bob Bulmer on Mon 31st March 2008 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Construction, Stairs
Balusters are usually fixed to the handrail via nails hammered into them at angles - which then embed into the underside of the rail.
A loose baluster can be caused by a nail working free - in which case fixing the loose baluster is very simple. i.e you remove the loose nail with pincers and insert a longer, slightly thicker nail in it’s place.
If you are unable to remove the loose nail (which is unlikely) simply flatten it off and insert your new nail in a different location. To insure the baluster timber doesn’t split, drill a pilot hole first.
Posted by Bob Bulmer on Fri 28th March 2008 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Construction, Stairs
We took a look at fixing creaking stairs where access could be easily achieved from underneath.
With covered stairs it can be hardly worth interfering with the plaster covering on the underside of the stairs.
One solution is to try inserting talcum powder into the joint that is causing the problem. This can act as lubricant lessening or even eradicating the creak completely. Alternatively, you could try screwing the front of the tread onto the riser.
Posted by Bob Bulmer on Thu 27th March 2008 at 10:24 AM, Filed in Construction, Stairs
Stairs tend to creak when ever the tread or riser is not securely fixed. This results in the riser rubbing against an adjacent piece of wood.
To fix creaking stairs can be very simple indeed - provided the underside of the staircase is accessible. For instance, most staircases are accessible from an underside cupboard or such like.
The best and simplest remedy is to insert additional timber blocks which are screwed and glued underneath the riser. This can be achieved by following these procedures:
1. Drill four holes in each block - so that you can attach via inserting screws into both the riser and tread.
2. Place the block at the junction of the riser and the tread - make pilot holes so that you can fix your screws.
3. Add glue to the surfaces of the block that will be touching the tread and riser.
4. Screw in your timber block.
5. Secure the tread and riser further by squirting glue into the join. You can also drive nails through the back of the riser and into the back edge of the tread.
A plumb line is used in checking that a brick wall is vertical.
The plumb line is usually tied round and notched into a board which is then placed on the top course. The end of the plumb line hangs down the wall - gravity gives you a vertical line downwards. This gives you a perpendicular guide while you’re constructing a wall.
A roller pointing tool uses different blades for shaping different shaped joints between stretchers and courses. i.e it creates smooth pointing within brickwork.
Alternatively, you can use a piece of sacking to smooth out flush joints or for inverted joints you could use a bent piece of copper tubing or even a piece of hosepipe.
