Posted by Bob Bulmer on Wed 23rd January 2008 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Fencing

Timber fence posts tend to bear the full brunt of any prevailing weather conditions. Therefore, their life span tends to be dictated by the preservation measures and maintenance you carry out.

Here are some tips for getting longevity out of your timber fence posts:

1. The bottom of each fence post should be thoroughly soaked in wood preservative.  This should give it some protection from the elements underground.

2. Thoroughly paint the rest of the post in wood preservative. Give it a couple of coats.

3. Make sure the posts are thoroughly dry. This could take up to 24 hours.

4. Apply new wood preservative on the fence post every couple of years.

Posted by Bob Bulmer on Tue 22nd January 2008 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Fencing

The tools you will need are:

• Drill.

• Various bits.

• Hammer.

• Screw driver.

Materials

• Fence panels.

• Posts - one more than the number of panels.

• Alloy nails - 50mm.

• Fence clips - four per panel.

You should use the following procedures:

Read more...

Posted by Bob Bulmer on Mon 21st January 2008 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Fencing

Chain link wire fences aren’t the most attractive - but do have practical applications.

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The construction comprises a mesh of galvanised wire which is stretched between concrete, metal or even timber fence posts. It’s attached to the posts via metal stretcher bars.

The chain link mesh is integrated with horizontal wires that are attached to the fence posts.

Chain link wire fencing ranges from 1m to 3m with a mesh diameter of 50mm. This type of fence offers a number of positive advantages:

1. A high level of security to the fenced off area.

2. Given that the fencing is galvanised it has real durability.

3. Easy to erect and maintain.

Posted by Bob Bulmer on Fri 18th January 2008 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Fencing

A cleft chestnut paling fence is quite simply stakes of chestnut wired together and stretched between posts. The end and corner posts are most usually braced with stays.

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The distance between posts is approximately 2.5m with a height of 1m - 1.9m.

I am not personally a great fan of chestnut paling because it is pretty flimsy and is in fact best used as a temporary boundary. It is quite versatile and can be erected or taken down quickly - you’ll see chestnut paling quite often at festivals and open air concerts. It does not need preserving but the wires that hold the chestnut stakes together need to be tightened and taut. 

Posted by Bob Bulmer on Thu 17th January 2008 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Fencing

Post and Rail fencing AKA ranch style or railboard fencing is often seen filling the boundary for rural fields.

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The construction is very simple - horizontal rails are attached to posts. The rails can come in a variety of shapes including square sawn, round or half round. To add a country feel the rails can sometimes come with bark still on.

The rails can either be nailed or slotted onto fence posts and are placed approximately 2m apart, but can be as little as 1m.

The post and rail fence raise memories of the country for me and that is what they most closely associated - whether it be the wild west or an English dairy farm. They work well as markers of demarcation and decoration. As with all timber fencing it will require regular coats of preservative.

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