We love new gadgets on Redoityourself and that’s why we’re excited to feature the JML Universal Screwdriver.
This thing is just perfect for dealing with those DIY jobs that are fiddly, small or awkward. A real help if all you have in your tool kit is a bulky power drill.
The JML Universal Screwdriver gives you a twelve in one chances to show off your DIY skills - with two barrels preloaded with six screw heads. The first sits at the front of the screwdriver, whilst the second is concealed in its base. I have lost literally thousands of screws with my ungainly fat fingers so this feature is particularly handy for me.
Another ingenious feature is the barrel bit loading system. JML say:
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Posted by Bob Bulmer on Wed 13th February 2008 at 05:04 PM, Filed in Screws And Nails
If you have plasterboard walls then you will need a wing arrow plug.
This light plastic plug spreads out to grip the back of the plasterboard.
It tends to be used with No. 8 screws and lightweight fixings. Don’t try fixing a plasma TV to the wall with these - it pull out of the wall!!!
Bolts and screws can often become corroded and fused together. In some instances this can be reversed by using the following procedure:
1. Soak the fused bolts or screws with penetrating oil. You may need to do this several times over 48 hours.
2. Use a monkey wrench and spanner to gently remove the bolt.
3. If the screw and bolt do not move, you can use a nut splitter (as per the below picture) that will cut through the bolt.
4. The screw head can be drilled out using a specialist metal resistant drill bit.
Posted by Bob Bulmer on Mon 22nd October 2007 at 06:00 AM, Filed in Screws And Nails
A coach bolt incorporates a square collar under a domed head that interlocks with timber as it is tightened. The major benefit of this is that only one spanner is needed to tighten up a nut.
A washer should be used under the nut to stop it imprinting on the timber.
Sizes vary up to 500mm long and 20mm diameter.
1. Mark the position on the tile using a felt tip.
2. Place some see through masking tape over the mark. Re mark the position on the tape. The tape is used to prevent the drill masonry bit sliding on the surface of the tile.
3. Fit your drill with a small diameter masonry bit - this helps prevent cracking. Begin slowly drilling at the mark until the bit has penetrated through the surface glaze of the tile.
4. Match a larger masonry drill bit with the screw you intend fix with.
5. Begin slowly drilling at the hole until you have enlarged the hole within the tile and also drilled through to the plaster behind it.
6. Insert a plug if necessary - then insert your fixing screw. Do not tighten the screw too far otherwise you will end up cracking the tile.
